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25 February 2012
Several years ago, I spent the night before «Clean Monday», as Greeks call the first day of Lent, baking the traditional Lenten flatbread lagana with a local Athenian baker. Even though he went about his business methodically and professionally, turning out more than a thousand or so loaves, he didn’t fail to observe all the traditions of th fast. Indeed, ...
25 February 2012
Spetzofai is a classic sausage and pepper stew from the Volos and Mt. Pelion region of Greece. Sometimes you can find the dish with fish. I adapted it to the needs of Lent and created a cuttlefish and roasted red pepper version of this recipe. It’s great as a main course or as a meze and it goes with crisp ...
23 October 2011
It’s not by accident that literature is filled with references to the tricks unethical fishmongers will play. From the ancient comedy writers to Athenaeus to Shakespeare, the fishmonger is derided for everything from spraying fish with water to make it look fresh to overcharging for his goods. Not much has changed today. So how, exactly can you know if the ...
11 October 2011
When the mercury dips below a certain number and I dust off my heavy winter jacket (at last) I know it’s time for soup. Soup is an underrated food category in the cuisine that gave the world brilliant tomato-feta salad, crackling roasted lamb, and succulent grilled fish enlivened with lemon. Our sunny, warm clime has fostered other traditions, no doubt, ...