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Prepare pumpkin. Heat oven to 375°F (190°C). Cut a 4–5-inch lid around stem. Scoop out seeds and fibers. Brush interior with 1 tbsp olive oil; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Place in a baking dish and replace lid loosely.
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Partially roast. Bake 35–45 minutes, until flesh begins to soften but still holds its shape. Pour out accumulated liquid. Keep oven on.
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Prepare grain. For bulgur: rinse and soak in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain very thoroughly. For rice: rinse, then simmer in water 7–8 minutes until partly cooked but still firm; drain and cool. Do not add either grain dry to the filling.
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Dry spinach. Wilt spinach in a large pot with a splash of water, 3–4 minutes. Cool, squeeze very thoroughly and chop.
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Cook aromatics. Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in skillet. Cook onion and leek 7–8 minutes; add scallions and garlic and cook 2 minutes. Add spinach and cook 3 minutes to drive off moisture. Cool 10 minutes.
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Mix filling. Combine spinach mixture with herbs, feta and prepared bulgur or rice. Season with pepper. Taste for salt before adding eggs; then stir in beaten eggs. Add breadcrumbs only if mixture seems wet.
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Fill and roast. Spoon filling into pumpkin without compacting; leave ½ inch at top. Brush exterior with remaining olive oil, replace lid and roast 50–70 minutes more, until pumpkin flesh is tender and filling center reaches 165°F (74°C). Tent with foil if browning.
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Serve. Rest 15–20 minutes. Remove lid, garnish if desired and cut into wedges so each portion includes pumpkin and filling.